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v vB'Sheets-Q-Shee|. WILLIAM-DUCHEMIN.

Machine for Sewing'Turned Shoe.

N0. 121,237, In Patented Nov. l278, 1871.

i 3 Shee'cs--Sl'aeetk WILLIAM DUCHEMIN.

Machine for Sewing Turned Shoes.

i Patented Nov. 28,1871.

INVENTOR.

' WITNESSES.

SShe'etS--Sheet 3. WILLIAM DUCHEMIN.

Machine for Sewing Turned Shoes.

* No., 121,237. Pafehfednov. 28,1871.

UNITED S'rn'rns rrrcn.

DUOHEMIN, OF BOSTON, MASS., ASSIGNOR TO 'HIMSELE 'GEORGE B.

BIGELOW, WILLIAM EDSON, AND JOHN BIGELOW, OF SAME PLACE; ASSIGN- ORS TO GEORGE B. BIGELOW, TRUSTEE.

lMPROVEMENT EN SEWiNG=MACHINES`FR BOOTS AND S.HO-.ES

Specification forming part of Letters Patent No. 121,237,dated November 2B, "1871.

To all' whom .it may: concern:

Massachusetts, have invented an Improved Machine for Sewing Turned Shoes; and I do hereby declare that the following is so full and exact a description as to enable others skilled in the art to make and use my invention, reference being had to the accompanying drawings and to the letters of referencemark'ed thereon.

To assist the mind in following the description of this machine the saine letters, with a number annexed, are used for all parts of the devices that act directly together'to produce a desired result.

Figure 1 is a perspective view. Fig. 2 is a front elevation, showing the principal working parts of the machine. Fig. 3 is a cross vertical section of the same. Fig. 4 shows the position of the needle and needle-guard while passing through the shoe. Fig. 5 is a section of the tingers as they 'appearwhen open to clasp the thread. 6 shows the fingers in section closed, giving the thread a quarter-turn. Fi 7 shows the loop formed by tli'e withdrawal of the thread-carrier, the ngers being shown in section, as before.

' E inal'l the drawings is the propelling-shaft for the whole machine', and has attached to itthe cant Wheels E2 E3 E4 E5. N, Figs. 2 and 3, is the fixed point or gauge, which serves as a guide against which the workman holds the shoe while it is being sewed. The arm F1 is pivoted at one end to the face-plate vC( ofthe machine, is curved upward, and the free end rests on the top of the pressure-bar F2. The slide F strikes the arm F1 `about centrally, and the curved portion thereof Y that its outer edge or lip presses the upper-leather i-ntothechannel made for its reception at the outer edges of the sole to'reeeive the stitch. The pressy ure-bar is operated as follows: A spiral spring immediately behind and at the top end of F2, not shown in drawings, serves to throw the bar F2 F3 up whenrelieved from pressure, while the camrod F, acting through the spring-lever F1 at prop` er times. serves to press the bar F2 F2 down. The

-s rinOf-leverF1 is in fact an intermediate s rin r having two .distinct functions-one enabling the vparts of the shoe.

pressure equahzes all differences of thickness inv presser-bar to accommodate Eitself .to the irregu- V v Be it known that I, W iLLrAM DUGHEMIN, of i Boston, in the county of Suffolk and StateA of larities ofthe upper stock, which., in turned shoes,

. by reason of gathering in the toe .and heel, is al-` Ways much thicker at the end of the .shoe bein g sewed; the other, in giving an extra pressure en the toe and heel, thuspressing the parts so .gathered smooth and enabling the machine to do its work smooth and iirrn with the same tension for the thread with which it sews the side er smooth In other words, 'this extra a most valuable part of my invention. It is made a little thinner at the center than at-the ends, and is formed on its under side as shown and described. y is acted upon by the periphery of the cani-wheel E4, and is pressed' down and so held, excepting at the time that the depression ff, Figs. 2 and 3,A

in the periphery E4, is immediately over it and at such time the spring spoken of above is free te lift up the pressure-bar F2 .andthus free the work for the action of the feed. At the same time that the pressure-foot relieves the work the cam Q7 on E4, operating through the lever QG and link Q4, Fig. 3, the bent lever Q3 Q2, Fig. l, releases the stand ard P4 by withdrawing the 'wed ge Q Q1, thus allowing the arm P, which is supported by the standard P4, to Ibe depressed sufficiently to allow the workman to turn the'shoe. The feedlever G, swinging upon the pivot G1 and operated by the peripherical cam-slot between the camwheels E2 E72, actuates the feed-point G2 G, the feed-point G2 G3 swinging on a pivot, GG, said pivot being free to slide in the plate C. G4 G4 are guides fastened to the plate C, which serve to limit the tripping motion of the feed-point G2 G3. Thus as the point is pushed forward its rear end will swing upward toward the upper guide G4, while its forward or working end will be sut'- tieiently depressed to impinge against the article to be fed forward; but when the feed-point is thrown backward its working part is elevated so as to free itself from the stock and not carry it backward. The amount of motion given to the feed-point--in other words, the length of the The cam-rod F has a roller, F10, which Q arm P is attached to a segment, P1.

stitch--is regulated by the slotted guide G5, Fig. 2, which is held in any desired position by the screw G7. The plates K1 and J1, Fig. 3, are connected to the face-plate C, and are provided with circular' slots K2 J2. In the slot K2 the needlecarrier K3 traverses, while in the slot J2 the needle-guard carrier J3 traverses. The needle-carrier K3 is operatedby the cam--rod K, while the needle-guard carrier J2 is operated bythe camrod J, Fig. 2. The radial arm P and its adjunct are peculiar in construction and opera-tion. The

This segment is a part of a circle the center of which is near the upper end of the arm P, and is concentric with the curved surface of the upper end of the arm P, so that when P1 slides in the grooves made in P2 P5 the upper end of the arm P maintains its relative position in all respects with relation to the guide N, in other words, the upper end of the arm P'is not moved out of position by any movement of the lower end so long as the segment P1 is within the grooves in P2 P5. By this arrangement any part of a shoe may be sewed. By raising the lower end ofthe arm P the whole arm will -assume nearly a horizontal position and will extend to the extreme toe of the shoe. By bringing the arm to a nearly-vertieal position the heel ofthe shoe may be sewed. 'The thread-carrier L5 is connected to the curved slide L5, which is operated by the cam-rod L. acting through the lever L1 on the back of the plate C', shown in Fig. 2 by dotted lilies. This thread-carrier is much longer and larger than, the needle, as hereinafter Y described, but otherwise has like it a groove on its under side and an eye a little back from the point, while the point is dat and sharp, but not adapted to sewing like the sewing-needle. The

fingers Fl F5, Fi.gs..2 and 3, are peculiar in shapev and operation and. they close by passing each other edgewise andA in line with the center joint 'of the said fingers. lVhen the jaws are opened for the purpose of seizing the thread brought forward by thev thread-carrier L5 for forming the loop they assume the position shown in Fig. 5; when closed with the thread between them they are as represented in Figli; and when the threadcarrier has receded the loop is completed, as is shown in Fig..v7, said loop being at right angles with theloopwhen it is lirst brought forward by the thread-carrier L5, and between the needle K5 and the feed G2, having received in its form-.n tion a full quarter-turn for that purpose.- lhen the lingers are thrown back, as will be hereafter described, the loopwill be between the thread carrier L5 and the needle K5, and in such a position that the thread-carrier must pass through this loop formed` by its own thread before passing under the thread brought forward by the needle K5. rllhe fingers serve to seize one of the threads and to place itiinthe proper position for forming the loop, and. are operated as follows: The spring F11', Fig. 3,.serves.to keep the fingers closed unless they are opened, as they are at the proper time, by the action of the lever H H1 through the lever H2. The side cam E5 serves to move H. The lateral reciprocating motion of conjunction with the spring F5. The link M5 is connected to the lingers M4 by means of the screw F9, and motion is communicated to it by the bent lever M4, which is connected with the link M, which in turn is operated by the thread-carrier slide L3. The link M5 draws the upper end of the lingers over toward theleft until the hook F12, which is attached to F4', catches upon the pin F7. The lingers are held in this position until the arm F5, which is connected to the pressurefoot F2, rises sufficiently to raise the hook F12 off the pin F5. This releases the upper end of the linger and the spring F5 'draws them over to the right into the position shown in Fig. 2. J 5, Figs. 2 and 3, is the needle-guard, circular inform and round in section to within a quarter of an inch of the point, where it is concavo-convex in section. In forming the point the upper or' concave side must be exactly the reverse of the shape of the lower side of the needle K5, so that the guard. may underlie the point of the needle in such a manner that the needle and needle-guard togeth er will form, as it were, a continuous needle and move together through the same perforation thus preventing the thin upper stock from being torn by catching on the point of the needle. 'Ehe needle is circular in form and'half an elllipsein shape, heilig groovcd on the lower side for the reception of the thread, and provided with a groove on its upper and outer sides at right angles with and about three-eighths of an inch back from the eye, in which the point` of the thread-carrier passes when bringing forward its loop. The needle tapers from the eye for about half an inch to a sharp point, making' the use of an awl to assist it in sewing unnecessary.

The method of operating my machine is as follows: Having threaded the needle K5 and threadcarrier L5, which is done by passing the thread through the eye of each from the under side, the operator places the shoe in such a manner between the arm P and the sewing-gauge N that the point of the gauge N shall be inside of and follow the channel cut for sewing on the sole. The sole is then pressed up against the sewinggauge N by the spiral springs P5, and is kept firmly in place, during the process of driving the L needle and drawing the thread to form the stitch,` l by the wedge Q Q1.

Vhen the shoe is thus secured the pressure-bar F2, Fig. 2, is brought into position and presses firmly the'upperleather of the shoe and keeps it in place while the stitch is being made. The needle-guard J 5, by the action of the cam E5 on the rod J, is brought down just sufficient to pierce the upper-leather of the shoe; then it remains stationary until met by the point of the needle K5, when it assumes the position shown in Fig. 4, when it recede's; and as the needle advances, the point of the needle K5 bemg t just above the point of the needleguard J 5, which thus forms a guard so that the needle may not tear the thin upper stock of the shoe. The needle having come forward the full length of the stitch is drawn back sufficiently to slacken its thread enough to allow the thread-carrier L5 to pass between the needle K5 and its thread, said thread being on the upper side of the needle,

when the needle K5 remains stationary long enough to enable the thread-carrier L5 to perform its part of the work, which consists in bringing forward a second thread, that is caught and held in place by the fingers F4 F5. These fingers F4 F5 act as follows When the thread-carrier L, being acted on by the cam E5, has brought forward f the thread, the fingers being open by the action of the cam-lever H2 and moved forward by the mechanism M M2 M3 M4 and M5, comes in such a position as to catch the thread of the threadcarrier L5; then the pressure of the cam-lever H2 is removed, and the lower end of the lingers seize the thread. Now the thread-carrier L5 recedes, leaving the thread which is thus made to form a loop at right angles with the loop of the needle K5. The needle K5 is then brought back to its original position and a stitch is formed. The pressure-bar F3 is then relieved from the action of the cam E4, and, through the agency of a spring not shown, it rises. In risinga small bar, F8, touches the hook F12, releasing the fingers from the position in which they were brought when they caught the thread of the carrier L5. vN ow, by the action of the spring F6 they are brought back to their original position, still retaining the loop in such a position that the thread-carrier L5 can pass through it before passing the needle K5in making the succeeding stitch. The wedge Q Q1 is then drawn back, relieving P4 from the iXed position, so that the arm P may be depressed and thus allow the shoe to be moved forward the length of the stitch by feed G2.

Having now described my invention, what I claim as new, and desire to secure by Letters Patent, is-

l. The work-supporting arm P P1 working in a segmental slide, in combination with the standard P4, all operating substantially as and for the purpose described.

2. In a machine for sewing turned shoes a reciprocating pressing device, operated by a cam or its equivalent, substantially as described, to retain the upper in close contact with the sole while the needle is entering and being withdrawn from the sole and upper, and which is released when the feed takes place. f Y

` WILLM. DUCHEMIN.

Witnesses:

FRANK G. PARKER, A. HUN BERRY. (134) 

